Winter in Romania is a time of rich tradition and celebration, with a diverse range of festivities that reflect the country’s rich cultural heritage. From the Nativity Feast and Saint Nicholas to Christmas carolling, pig slaughtering, and the New Year, Romanians come together to celebrate the winter holidays with joy and reverence. Each tradition has its unique significance steeped in Romanian culture, fostering a sense of togetherness and communal spirit. The winter festivities provide a time for introspection, appreciation, and jubilation.
The rich folklore and legends of Romania date back centuries and are a product of various influences, including ancient pagan beliefs, Christianity, and cultural interactions with neighbouring countries and invading empires. The tradition of pig slaughtering, a deep-rooted practice in Romania, has several theories about its origins, from the ancient Dacians and Roman antiquity to a possible connection with Saint Ignatius of Antioch in the Romanian Orthodox calendar. Regardless of its historical origins, the practice continues to be a meaningful part of winter holiday festivities in Romania.
Since joining the European Union, Romania has had to comply with various regulations concerning animal welfare. However, one tradition that has been granted an exemption is the practice of pig slaughtering during the winter holidays. While some argue that this practice is inhumane and should be abolished, others contend that it is a deeply ingrained cultural tradition that holds significant meaning for many Romanians.
Despite the cultural significance of the pig slaughtering tradition to many rural Romanian families, the government is taking steps towards implementing more modern and humane methods of animal slaughter to replace traditional practices. This transition may take some time as the tradition has been passed down through generations and is deeply ingrained in the culture. While the idea of slaughtering a pig may sound distressing, it holds great importance to the livelihood and heritage of these communities.
Livestock farming has been a prevalent practice in rural Romania for decades, with popular household choices being chickens, cows, and pigs. My grandfather, who is from a thriving rural village, had raised various animals alongside a massive apple and plum orchard at different points in his life, especially since retiring in the countryside. At the age of 84, my grandfather remains committed to his land and livestock, diligently caring for five piglets and a couple of chickens. His unwavering dedication is a testament to the archetypal Romanian grandfather working tirelessly to provide for his family the best way he knows by traditional means.
In February of last year, my grandfather decided to reintroduce pig farming into his daily rural activities after a few years of focusing on his flourishing garden and caring for a couple of chickens. Despite health concerns that made tending to numerous animals and maintaining his land difficult, he had raised and fattened pigs for many years and felt like something was missing without them. He planned to raise a pig to sacrifice next winter when the entire family would gather to participate in this cherished tradition. This tradition typically occurs on December 20th, during the celebration of Saint Ignatius Day. However, due to family member availability, it may occur on other days before or after the winter holidays. For my grandfather, it was important to choose a day that would allow all family members to participate, not only to assist in the process but also to spend time together and partake in the festivities.
Growing your own food is vital for Romanians living in rural areas as it allows access to fresh, healthy, and nutritious food that is free from harmful chemicals and pesticides. In rural areas, where agriculture is still a prevalent source of income, growing their own food is a common practice among families. This practice enables them to have a sustainable and reliable source of food that is not only healthier but also more affordable.
It is a tradition passed down from generation to generation and a way of preserving their cultural heritage. It can also foster a sense of community and connection as people share their harvest and recipes, promoting a more sustainable and self-sufficient lifestyle.
Traditions provide a sense of identity and continuity, linking people to their past and cultural heritage. In rural areas, where many people are still engaged in traditional agriculture and crafts, traditions are an essential part of daily life. It is a way of preserving the knowledge, skills, and values passed down from generation to generation, helping to maintain a sense of identity and continuity. It can promote social cohesion and community building. In rural areas, where communities are often tight-knit, traditions allow people to unite and celebrate their shared values and customs. It can foster a sense of belonging, encourage social interaction, and promote mutual support.
Rediscovering fond childhood memories and experiencing the traditional pig slaughter in the rural Romanian countryside with my beloved family.
Driving my parents to my grandfather’s countryside home, where he chose to spend his retirement, brought back memories of my childhood visits. As the designated driver, I couldn’t help but feel nostalgic, remembering the Dacia car rides with my parents as a child. My mother sat beside me as my co-pilot sharing stories of the villages we passed through while also playfully pretending to hit the imaginary brakes of the car. My father was in the backseat pretending or at least trying to sleep as we drove through the winding roads of rural Argeș. It was a peaceful drive with little traffic, allowing us to enjoy the sights and sounds of early morning in rural Romania.
Upon our arrival, we found everyone busily preparing for the pig slaughter, except for the person responsible for carrying out the act of killing, as it is crucial that the animal is not caused any unnecessary suffering. Although I was hesitant to witness this event, I offered to assist in the best way I could by fetching a supply of golden nectar, also known as beer, from the village shop for the family workforce. When I returned, the sacrifice was concluded, and everyone could now enjoy a beer and start the butchering process.
The two designated butchers were my father and uncle, under the careful supervision of my grandfather. Although I participated in the process, my role was limited to slicing some șorici (pork rind) to enjoy with my beer, and I was also in charge of managing two fire pits to ensure a constant supply of hot water. Before the butchering process began, the entire pig was singed with a large propane torch to remove the hair and tighten the skin. The hair was then entirely removed with a knife and hot water, using a shaving technique to clean the pig thoroughly without damaging the skin. Afterwards, my grandfather marked a cross on the pig’s forehead, symbolising the sacrifice and purifying the meat. The pig was then rubbed with salt to tenderise the rind and covered with a thick wool blanket to retain heat.
During this time, the men take a short break while my mother and grandmother prepare everything necessary for storing, cleaning and cooking that will take place after the butchering process is complete. The next step in the process is to butcher the animal, ensuring that no part goes to waste. The pig’s legs are removed first, followed by the hams, muscles, backbone, head, and front and back thighs. Only the entrails are left on the belly. All the parts are separated into individual containers and are thoroughly salted, especially around cuts and joints. As for myself, I was part of the one-man delivery team operated and coordinated by myself, ensuring that everything was carefully transported to my mother and grandmother. They started preparing cuts for melting, smoking, cooking, and barbecuing.
During the butchering process, it is important to carefully remove the entrails without touching the meat to avoid spoiling it. This involves cutting out the stomach, small and large intestines, which must then be cleaned with warm water. As per tradition, the unluckiest family member is usually assigned to this task. In our case, it was my mother who had to undertake this unpleasant job. However, I offered to assist her as I was aware of how challenging and unpleasant it could be. My task was to pour warm water while my mother cleaned the entrails to ensure that they were thoroughly cleaned and rid of any smell. After that, we soaked them in warm water with vinegar to ensure they were well sterilised.
Returning to the butchering board, the remaining pork belly is skillfully sliced into strips, meticulously trimmed, and then either boiled in a flavourful mixture of red wine, herbs, and spices or prepared for the homemade smoker to be smoked for a few weeks. These are two ways my family prepares the slănină or slană, a cherished and delicious home-cured bacon. The fattier portions of the pork belly or bacon are cut into medium-sized cubes and added to a large cauldron called a ceaun, where they are melted. The resulting melted bacon, also known as jumări or pork greaves/scratchings, is a delightfully crunchy snack.
The pig’s head is cleaved in two with an axe, exposing the fresh brain that can either be deep-fried after coating it with egg wash and flour or added to scrambled eggs. In certain areas of Romania, the brain is considered a delicacy and is usually reserved for the most hardworking or elderly family members. The head is then boiled in a large cauldron with a combination of herbs, spices, and garlic to infuse the meat with flavour. This step is integral to the preparation of tobă, a traditional Romanian dish resembling a broad sausage that is made using the pig’s stomach as a casing. The tobă is then packed with pork gelatin, pig ears, pork rind, bacon, pig organs such as heart and kidney, and various spices.
The pork ribs are cracked into smaller pieces to be more manageable and placed in the smoker alongside the slănină and sausages. Using parts of the thighs and chunks of fat, my family creates various links mixed with spices and plenty of garlic. For lebăr, a Romanian delicacy similar to German liverwurst or French pâté, the liver is combined with bits of pork meat, bacon, chopped onions, and whole eggs. These dishes are all expertly prepared by my grandmother, who holds many old-school recipes and has the most experience in the family. It is worth noting that these are just a few examples of the many ways that Romanian families prepare their pork dishes, and each region and household has its own unique variations.
After the completion of the butchering process, the men joined the women in the preparation and cooking of the meat. They tended to the various cauldrons on fire, minced meat for the sausages, and even built a new smoker from scratch. Meanwhile, I took charge of the grill and prepared one of the most mouth-watering barbecues ever. Some meat cuts, sausages, and bacon were grilled, while the rest were smoked for several weeks using the homemade smoker with oak wood. As the person in charge of melting the bacon, I managed to sneak a few half-done pieces to throw on the grill. Grilled fat bacon cubes, sliced up and tossed on fresh Romanian bread, provided a uniquely delicious culinary experience. I also prepared the original mici, minced meat rolls made with leftover meat mixed with garlic, herbs, and spices from the sausages.
The ambience among the group became noticeably more relaxed, and it signalled that the hard work was nearly complete after the hearty lunch feast. With only the garden area left to tidy up, preparations for the upcoming days were almost finished. The next course of action involved starting fires in my grandfather’s masonry stoves, located in his rustic countryside home, in order to warm up the rooms. We would then gather around the family table, where my grandmother would treat us to a hot and flavorful cup of boiled țuică infused with peppercorns. This particular țuică was uniquely homemade by my grandfather, using plums harvested from his own orchard. This distilled brandy possesses an exquisite taste, especially when savoured during the colder months of the year.
On this particular occasion, instead of stirring up trouble, my primary responsibility was stirring every cauldron that simmered something delicious. In a large pot, I mixed cornmeal in boiling water that would soon become mămăligă, a dish deeply ingrained in Romanian culture and identity. Mămăligă is a healthier substitute for bread, as it is gluten-free. The pièce de résistance, however, had to be pomana porcului, a simple yet delicious dish. Pomana porcului, translated roughly as “the pig’s alms,” involved sizzling pork in a separate cauldron, which required stirring to prevent burning and sticking. As a family feast, the pork meat was fried in lard and transformed into a stew served with mămăligă and murături, homemade pickled vegetables. I eagerly anticipated its completion and could not wait for the mouthwatering feast.
As the busy and productive day drew to a close, it was time to relinquish for the night. To everyone’s surprise, we all decided to spend the night at my grandfather’s place, and I ended up sleeping on a massive mattress on the floor, which provided the best sleep I had ever experienced. The cold air at the bottom of the room and the warm air emanating from the masonry stove created a delightful atmosphere that evoked a sense of relaxation and nostalgia.
In the past, I had missed several family events that my grandfather had hoped I would participate in. Unfortunately, due to the distance and the pandemic, attending many of these events had become nearly impossible. While I may not be able to carry on certain traditions, I believe spending as much time as possible with my grandfather is imperative. He is a living archive of invaluable knowledge, culture, and family history that I would hate to miss out on.
Bibliography
Adelaida, M. and Lopez, R. (2016). The Importance of Preserving Culture and Tradition in the 21st Century. Journal of Education and Practice, Vol.7, No.20, 2016.
Augère-Granier, M.-L. (n.d.). The EU Pig Meat Sector. BRIEFING EPRS | European Parliamentary Research Service.
Olsson, A.S., Araújo, S.M. and M. Fátima Vieira (2016). Food Futures: Ethics, Science and Culture. Wageningen Academic Publishers.
